In India, Jewellery symbolises beauty, finesse and power. For more than 5,000 years, Jewellery has occupied a unique place in Indian tradition and custom. A piece of Jewellery has been associated with each stage of human life – it is gifted at a ‘naming’ ceremony, a marriage ceremony and even at a funeral. Although Gold Jewellery has traditionally symbolised wealth and prosperity, today, with the changing trends, tastes and preferences of women, the concept of Jewellery has undergone a drastic change. To meet the demands of modern women, Jewellery designers are experimenting with different materials and designs. While working women are increasingly preferring light-weight and ‘modern’ Jewellery, antique pieces are coming back in demand for brides. The range has vastly increased, and now includes Platinum, Steel, Terracotta, Leather and Crystal Jewellery - apart from customised Jewellery made with precious and semi-precious stones.
Talking about the craze of Jewellery among young women, award-winning Jewellery Designer, Monica Kapur says, “Earlier, Jewellery was the possession given to a woman by her parents and relatives as a gift during her wedding, as an adornment and also for practical reasons - she could use it at a time of financial distress. But today, with women becoming quite financially independent, Jewellery epitomizes their passions and desires - it speaks a lot about the woman wearing it. However, while the trends in Jewellery may change, the craze can never go away.” For Niti, a student of Amity University, Manesar, Jewellery is important just because it gives her an identity. “When you grow up, you have limited options in your wardrobe, in terms of colours and styles. Fortunately, Accessories have come as a God-send. They are also Jewellery, and can add a personal flair to any outfit. I can wear a black polo shirt and denims with a strand of pearls, to give myself a ‘classic’ look. In summer I use funky beaded necklaces with my kurtis. I am known for funky Jewellery among my friends. It has become a part of my identity now,” she smiles. Some girls believe that an outfit is not complete without bright silver accents and turquoise colours! Tanisha Chaturvedi, 25, a resident of Sector 22, says, “I love wearing Jewellery, but traditional pieces don’t interest me. I like light-weight Jewellery made with Terracota and oxidised Silver. I got my navel and lips pieced six years ago and I am soon planning to go for breast piercing, as I heard that it has many health benefits!” So, is wearing Jewellery a kind of therapy? It is believed that piercing the nose, ears, navel and breast is a kind of acupuncture treatment; it supposedly lowers the stress levels and makes you patient. “Not just piercing, bangles and anklets are also believed to make the hands and legs, respectively, more slender. Similarly, the navel stud and waist band (kamar-bandh) help maintain the girth of the waist,” says Garima Maitri, an acupuncture expert. Interestingly, many women now don’t like to wear gold Jewellery, even at their wedding! Neha Shrivastava, who got married last month, bought designer Jewellery for the M-day. “It is not about cost. In fact I spent more, as I bought a lot of Swarovski pieces and Soltaires. It is all about personal choice now,” she says. It seems that women today are not really attempting to convey a status symbol through their Jewellery, but rather wearing it as an outlet for their expression.
Jewellery design is so versatile in India that it varies across State and communities. Many Jewellery designers are now bringing tribal and rural Jewellery to the Metro cities, to offer variety to the modern woman. Clay Artist, Jayan V.K. from Karnataka, who has been designing Terracotta Jewellery for the last 10 years, explains, “We make Jewellery with clay on a potter’s wheel! It is one of the most environment-friendly ways to craft Jewellery. This Jewellery is not painted, it is fired with terracotta pottery. We try to keep the natural earthy tone of baked clay. Some pieces come out pale, some vivid and some black, which then gives different shades to different pieces - so there is much variety, naturally.” Jayan received an award from the Haryana government last year for giving a boost to the rural Jewellery-making industry and launching affordable Jewellery. The range starts from just Rs.50. Similarly, Paper Pulp Jewellery is catching on. “It is environment-friendly, affordable and unique. I have a huge collection. I was surprised to see waist bands and anklets made of paper pulp,” says Niti. Handcrafted Silver Jewellery is also in high demand. A decade ago, Silver Jewellery was not given much importance (it was a very poor cousin of gold); but today it is shining bright. Apala, a Jewellery store based in Galleria, offers a unique line of hand-crafted Silver Jewellery. “We combine Silver with precious and semi-precious stones. The stones are set in pure silver and most are rare pieces, bearing an international aesthetic,” says Sumit Sawhney, the owner. The new jewel in town, Crystal Jewellery, offered by some international brands like Swarovski in the form of figurines, finished Jewellery, beads and Jewellery components, is grabbing the attention of the young folk. Latika Lekhi, 30, a resident of Vatika City, says, “Swarovski offers high-quality crystals that have beautiful lustre and sparkle like diamonds. I like bicone crystal beads, as they are cut with a diamond shape on both the sides.” Custom Jewellery has always been popular. Who does not want a unique piece to make a style statement? A City-based Jewellery designer, Nancy Chao, says, “At first I used to make Jewellery only for my friends. However, once I set up my Facebook page I gradually started selling to online customers. Now I get orders from Delhi, Mumbai and even abroad. Most of them are now repeat orders.” Nancy has also found a good customer base for the rental of Jewellery. Monica Kapur, at the ‘other end’, offers high-end Diamond custom Jewellery. “Every woman wants something different. It is important to first understand the need, preference and personality of the customer. Sometimes you have to spend weeks to design a piece. However, at the end, a smile on the customer’s face is worth all the effort,” feels Monica. With the changing trends, Jewellery-making has also undergone a big change. Creating Jewellery is today genuinely considered an Art. Unique designs, with a sharp eye on proportion and volume, are valued in the world of Jewellery.
The desire to wear Jewellery is not limited to women, as men are also experimenting with different types of Jewellery. While earlier kings used precious gems and Gold as a statement of their power and prestige, today the men are looking for designer pieces. ìYoung men today are not looking at Gold jewellery; they are taking to Platinum and Silver chains, and bracelets. I think Platinum and Silver appeal to a manís sense of practicality, since the metal can withstand the rigours of daily wear,î says Vishal, from Platinum Guild International. He is so fond of Platinum Jewellery that he has asked his parents for this as his wedding gift - instead of a car.
For many, probably the more ëpracticalí, Gold will always remain important. Farah, mother of a college-going girl, says, ìI never used to like Gold jewellery. But when I got married and had a family, I understood the value of Gold even as an investment. The value of the Gold jewellery gifted by my parents at my wedding is now 30 times of the initial cost. I would therefore still prefer to buy Gold Jewellery, whether it is for my daughter or me. For me, spending on artificial Jewellery is waste of money.î V. Maithili from Jyollukas agrees and says, ìGold is very relevant, not only from an investment point of view. It has spiritual benefits. Couples should exchange a Gold ring at their engagement ceremony, as divine consciousness is attracted and emitted from that ring worn on the ring finger.î The craze of Gold can never fade in India. Many designers are now using Gold in phone covers, clothes, clutchesÖand even shoes.
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